The London restaurant cooking up sustainable fine dining menus

Category: (Self-Study) Lifestyle/Entertainment

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Fine dining might conjure up images of exotic foods, sourced from far-off lands. But St. Barts in London is on a mission to prove delicious food can be local—and it’s won a coveted Michelin award for its efforts.

St. Barts is the only Michelin-starred restaurant in London to also have a Green Michelin Star. While the traditional Michelin star indicates exceptional food, its green sister recognizes restaurants that use industry-leading sustainable practices.

From furniture made from fallen trees by a local woodworker to ingredients that are grown in an environmentally responsible way, the ethos is to protect the land and support British suppliers.

“Sustainability is for me about making sort of intelligent choices about the food that we use and the way in which we use it. So, a big thing for me is using UK produce. The fact that we can produce everything within the UK gives us a real opportunity to use all of that produce and therefore, help sustain the British farming industry,” says Johnnie Crowe, Executive Head Chef of Restaurant St. Barts. There is a strict policy to only use British ingredients—that means no olive oil, no lemons, no exotic spices.

Other restaurants would just throw waste products away, but here they become garums, sauces that can be used in dishes months from now. The idea is that not a single morsel of an animal or fish is wasted. Industry experts say being sustainable is not just about helping the environment, it makes good business sense too.

“[…] you can eliminate waste and cost from the business—and many of the green initiatives that people can take do just that, they reduce energy overheads and energy bills, which are a key headache at the moment,” says Kate Nicholls, CEO of the trade organization UK Hospitality.

But do diners care?

Crowe says he doesn’t think there is any point in “lecturing to people.” “There’s enough of that going on, without us doing it as well. But if 5 percent of diners pick up on it, appreciate it, then that’s kind of enough for me.”

It’s a restaurant that wants to prove that fine dining doesn’t have to cost the earth.

This article was provided by The Associated Press.

Script

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[Johnnie Crowe, Executive Head Chef, cooking meat]

[Chef preparing tray of snacks]

[Restaurant furniture made from sustainable materials]

[Crowe plating meat course]

Johnnie Crowe (interview): “Sustainability is for me about making sort of intelligent choices about the food that we use and the way in which we use it. So, a big thing for me is using UK produce. The fact that we can produce everything within the UK gives us a real opportunity to use all of that produce and therefore, help sustain the British farming industry.”

[Station in prep kitchen where garums, a type of sauce, are fermenting in jars and boxes]

[Label reading “Cuttlefish garum – 4/7/23”]

[Crowe preparing meat]

Johnnie Crowe (interview): “It’s about creating one dish out of the prime cuts, one dish out of the shoulder, using the shanks, curing some, making the trim into a garum, which then goes on to season later dishes down the line. There’s a lot that goes into basically figuring out how to use the whole thing, rather than figuring out a dish and then buying whatever cut of that animal fits your dish. It’s about working around the suppliers. I quite often chat to suppliers about it and say, look, we’ll work around you. Whenever the lambs are ready, we’ll take them.”

[Jars of pickled vegetables and fruit]

Johnnie Crowe (interview): “So during the winter is tough. We preserve, pickle, a hell of a lot during the summer, which gives us a certain amount of kind of freshness to the dishes still. But then, you know, if you come here January, February, you should expect to see celeriac, you should expect to see parsnip, and potato, and then sort of brassicas, cabbages.”

[Ice cream being spooned on “chocolate not-so-chocolate tart”]

[Dessert]

Kirsty Easterbook (interview): So this is our chocolate not-so-chocolate tart. So this is probably my favourite, just in terms of the techniques and methods in which we use to make it. So we don’t use any coffee beans or cocoa because nobody in the UK currently grows. So what we’ve done to mimic those flavours is that we use UK-grown barley. So this is it in its raw form.”

[Kirsty Easterbook handling barley]

[Easterbrook handling barley after it has been processed to form a dark paste]

Kirsty Easterbook (interview): “Nobody in the UK currently grows cocoa beans, so it does make it a little bit tricky to use that without breaking the restaurant ethos. So basically this is an alternative method to having a chocolate tart. So we have our Koji millionaire shortbread tart.”

[Chefs preparing snacks]

[Tray of snacks]

Kate Nicholls (interview): “Well, I think the restaurant industry at the moment is going through that perfect storm. It’s got soaring costs. It’s got pressure on margins. It’s got customers that are coming out less. So to be able to have a positive story to tell about sustainability, to look at areas that you can eliminate waste and cost from the business – and many of the green initiatives that people can take do just that, they reduce energy overheads and energy bills, which are a key headache at the moment – means that everybody can start on their sustainability journey. And hospitality is a very collaborative sector, so we share best practice, we share insights, and it means that everybody can do just a little bit to make sure that they play their part in addressing the climate challenge that we’re all facing.”

[Chef preparing food]

[Chef blow-torching snacks]

[Chef serving food to guests]

[Guest drinking wine]

Johnnie Crowe (interview): “I think diners want to come here and have a nice meal. And that’s great. And for me, I don’t think lecturing to people there’s any point. There’s enough of that going on, without us doing it as well. But if 5 percent of diners pick up on it, appreciate it, then that’s kind of enough for me.”

[Exterior of restaurant]

[Michelin plaque and menu on wall]

This script was provided by The Associated Press.